
4 4 26 Nice spot near former train station
5 4 26 Beautiful spot, found via Camper Contact. I feel a tad uncomfortable because upon arriving at the site I see information about France Passion. Hmmm, concept: a maximum of 24 hours free stay at a farmer's... but you do have to be a member. We don't see anyone at the shop. Feels a bit rude, but we're taking the risk.
Picturesque, the starting point for the Camino for many, with walking and cycling in the surrounding area. And with a bit of luck, watching a game of pelota.
Beautifully situated campsite. View of the valley and gorge. Along the Via Verde. Maximum 48 hours costs 5 euros, no electricity. Cozy spot with a park/playground.
After breakfast and coffee, we leisurely get the bikes ready for a gravel ride along the Vias Verde del Plazaola. Our only goal is exercise and enjoying the surroundings. We succeed perfectly; every now and then we spot a bird of prey, and we hear the splashing of the Larraun at various rapids. We pause at the waterfall and the dilapidated mill of Ixkier. It must be holiday time in Spain, with many mothers and children paddling and clambering over the stones and rocks. After taking some photos, we cycle on and stop for lunch at the former Lekunberri station. They find it rather strange there that we aren't having dessert. We cycle a little further for the views. We turn around and head back. Our camper is the only one at the campsite, and slowly others arrive again. In the small park/playground, locals are walking their dogs, chatting a bit, and the children are playing. It is all very pleasant.
11 4 26 Cp is a large parking lot. Nothing special (see credit card app), walk or take the bus to the center.
12 4 26 Visit to the Hotel MarquĆ©s de Riscal, home to the famous bodega š. It is a design by Frank O. Gehry, who is also responsible for the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. The building, dating from 2006, stands out due to its spectacular shapes, in the colors of the bodega's wines. An overnight stay starts at around ā¬700.00. We ask at the bodega if we can also have coffee there. That is possible if it isn't too busy... a call is made and it is possible. We wait a moment until a bodega tour has left. Then we are allowed through the staff exit and bodega to the hotel. What a remarkable building. It is lunchtime by now; we order a salad and fish, which are served deliciously slowly, one after the other. Meanwhile, we enjoy an olive, an almond, and the view. Coffee with a sweet chocolate bun to finish.
12 and 13 4 26 Campsite on the edge of the town is basic. We stayed there for 1 night. Afterwards, we moved to the campsite to charge the leisure battery. (Due to little sun, the battery was dead after 4 days)
Good cycling routes nearby
14 4 26 We move 60 km to a campsite on a Vias Verde in OƱa. With this, we leave the vineyards of Rioja and drive through the rolling countryside of Burgos. In the distance, snow-capped mountain peaks. We take the turnoff to OƱa and the surroundings become more wooded and with more "gorges". The campsite is located opposite the small town, which is dominated by a Benedictine monastery: Monasterio de San Salvador. An impressive building. After a late lunch and rain that drops to no more than a few drops, we go for a walk. Mostly flat, good ground. The next day we visit the monastery, which is also impressive inside. And cycle on the Via Verde.
Moving to a campsite 4 km away. Uh, the Google Maps route is an unpaved, increasingly narrow road. Footpath? That's not going to work. Back (in reverse) and via asphalt and signs in the village, we find a better route. We do the laundry etc. and go for a mountain bike ride. Found a nice loop on Komoot, 40 km, 950 meters of elevation gain, highest point at 1650 meters. (The campsite is at 1000 meters.) Along dry levadas. Soon I get to continue on unpaved terrain and head uphill. Naturally, I took a wrong turn a few times. At the dam. After that, a 900-meter stretch described as "you will probably have to walk with your bike." Narrow path, stones, mud, but mostly manageable with the MTB+ setting on the Cube. Then a more relaxed climb over a wide path with beautiful views. See the photo, although in real life it is even much more beautiful, quieter, grander (or something like that). Pure enjoyment! Descending requires good steering and taking it easy. Stay safe. Safe, you can't say that about every house in every hamlet along the way. Also, regular warnings and instructions regarding encounters with bears. Didn't see any. But often small lizards seeking cover and swooping and kiting in the air again. Descending on the P-210 (that beautiful route from yesterday) over smooth asphalt is really nice. I hadn't recognized the color of the MTB route signs before. On the way back to the campsite, we first have a beer on a terrace in the village. Spanish groups are so pleasantly loud.
Beautiful day. Before reaching the Basque coast, we make another stop in Cantabrica. It is much greener here again. In the region around Cervera de Pisuerga, many moss oaks are not yet in leaf. Here around Barcena, trees like beech and pine are already green. The low walls between the various plots remind us of Ireland. The distance covered today is about 70 km, and we mainly take the back roads. This way, we drive a beautiful route to Barcena. There, we take a walk to an abandoned village: Mediaconcha. The route follows an old Roman path (there they are again, the conquerors of yesteryear). The Calzada Romana del Besaya, one of the best-preserved historical routes in the region. It is cloudy today, and on the climb, it quickly becomes damp and sweaty, but the views are beautiful. When a family of hikers (5 adults and 2 children) walks towards us, I spot a slow worm (20 cm) on the path. I point it out with my walking stick. The man of the group bends down enthusiastically and quickly picks it up. Lively Spanish chatter among them, with translation for us from one of the women. Very nice. One of the children releases the slow worm again and we walk on. After a while, we hear a kind of brushcutter in the distance, but a moment later we are overtaken by two men on trail bikes. We meet up again in the deserted village. They are from the neighborhood and tell us that the village is not entirely deserted. Farmers come up daily to herd their cattle. And we also see a vegetable garden. JorgĆØ tells us where we can find the ruins of the church. The saying on the wall, "nature is god," seems to have been taken very literally here. Heading back, the descent is pleasant and always faster than going up. We keep hearing cowbells. They turn out to be horses. It is customary here to give the mares in semi-wild herds a bell. This way, the horses stay together in the mountains in the mist and are easier to find. Arriving in the town, we have a beer and a wine on the terrace. The restaurant is full of families/small groups at the end of a late lunch (?). The campsite has everything we need for a night. The view of an abandoned house fits the surroundings. Tomorrow to Santilla del Mar, a drive of about 40 km. Should I go by bike?
After writing down yesterday: "Should I go by bike?", I really started thinking about it, looked for a route, and consulted with Gem to see if she was up for driving the camper to Santillana Del Mar alone. Seems doable. So, let's do it. I drove off the campsite at 11 o'clock, and Gemma emptied the grey water tank etc. and left half an hour later. At half past twelve she texted: "I'm already there, had a good trip, broke out in a sweat occasionally, still miss having extra eyes to take the right turns. But I'm parked." I still had 3 kilometers to go out of the 40. On the way, a chat on the bike with a soon-to-be retiree of 59(!!!). He was practicing his English and I my Spanish. He pointed out a different route to me and the bike app fortunately adjusted it immediately. So we cycled on together for a bit longer. Nice, such a chance encounter. The route largely follows the railway and a river through nice villages, and the last ten kilometers through a park along the river. Mostly downhill, with the occasional short climb. In Santillana Del Mar, I lose my way to the campervan site on the cobblestones of the medieval streets. While searching, I realize that we were here two years ago as well. Back then, it was for a stopover on our way to Oyambre. When I arrive at the site, Gemma is busy with the final touches on the camper. Together, we put it on blocks, take a shower, and then walk into town for lunch. The restaurant Gemma chose has no tables available. Fortunately, there are other restaurants. We enjoy a Spanish lunch on a terrace in a courtyard: local bean soup, asparagus, cod, and chicken. Later, back at the camper, each of us in a corner, in or out of the sun, with our books.